By Wishtrend

Renude

I have chosen this gentle exfoliating cleanser to target congestion in the skin. Using this daily will resurface the skin to leave it clearer, smoother and more radiant.

Beta Glucans are polysaccharides found naturally in oats, fungi, seaweed and yeast. They are best known for its skin-soothing properties, showing excellent effects at reducing redness and other symptoms of sensitive skin. They do this via barrier-supporting properties, as they form a film on the skin’s surface to offer protection against daily environmental stressors, which can aggravate sensitive skin. They also stimulate macrophage function in the body (immune cells which fight invading bacteria), so offer added benefit to those with already compromised skin barriers more susceptible to bacterial infection, for example ezcema-prone or or drier skin types. Their polysaccharide nature makes them an effective humectant, meaning they can draw water molecules towards them to plump and hydrate the area.

beta glucan

This is a L’Oreal-patented active, also known as lipo-hydroxy acid, or LHA. It is an ester of salicylic acid which has been modified to make it more lipophilic, and therefore have better skin penetration abilities.

It works in a similar way to salicylic acid in that it has a keratolytic effect on the skin - encouraging the natural exfoliation process of dead surface cells, and in turn the production of new skin cells in the basal layer of the epidermis. It can also penetrate into the pores (more effectively than regular salicylic acid), removing any dead cell build-up inside and unblocking the pores, leading to a reduction in acne, whiteheads & blackheads.

Its superior skin affinity means it is effective at very low concentrations (0.3%) meaning results can be achieved without the side effects commonly associated with other resurfacing acids, so is a great choice for more sensitive skin types.

capryloyl salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which occurs naturally in willow bark. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin.

Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This P.Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

Gluconolactone is a poly hydroxy acid (PHA). PHAs work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. 

gluconolactone

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. 

Panthenol is a form of Vitamin B5, which is converted into Pantothenic acid within the epidermis when applied topically. Its main benefit in cosmetics is as a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to.

Panthenol also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

panthenol

Vitamin B5 is as a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to. It also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

Salix Alba (white willow) bark extract, is a plant extract containing naturally-occurring salicylic acid as it’s active constituent.

Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin. Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This P.Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

salix alba (willow) bark extract

Willow bark contains naturally-occurring salicylic acid. Salicylic acid works as an exfoliating acid to dissolve the keratin that binds the outermost layers of the skin, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin. Due to its oil-soluble form, salicylic acid can penetrate inside the pore, to clear out dead skin cell build up and prevent comedones (blocked pores) from occurring, or acne-causing bacteria to overpopulate within the pore. This P.Acnes bacteria is anaerobic so needs an oxygen-free environment to thrive, and thus require a pore to be blocked.

This is a low pH cleanser containing 1% LHA and low-irritation exfoliant PHA to treat pores and sebum. The cleanser uses two low-irritation acids to effectively exfoliate and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects with a non-comedogenic formula for acne skin.

I have chosen this mild exfoliating toner for your routine to offer gentle exfoliation and add radiance to the skin.

**Phase in slowly. Start with 1x per week, building up usage (if tolerated) to every night over several weeks. Avoid the corners of the mouth, the eye area and the neck.

arginine

glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract

Liquorice is a legume which grows in the Mediterranean, the Middle East & Russia. It contains the active constituent glabridin, which has been shown to prevent and reverse UV-induced skin damage, to provide visible skin-lightening properties to the skin.

Its second active component, Glycyrrhetinic acid is used in skincare for its anti-inflammatory benefits. It works by inhibiting the production of inflammatory substances, such as cortisone, within the body, with some research showing results to be comparable to prescription hydrocortisone cream.

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from bitter almonds. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use.

Mandelic acid has a larger molecular weight vs. other acids in the AHA category. It is twice the molecular weight of glycolic acid for example (the smallest AHA on the market), so it tends to be better tolerated than smaller AHAs, which penetrate the skin much faster. Research also shows that mandelic acid is particularly effective at improving some forms of pigmentation, compared with other AHAs.

mandelic acid

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid (a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body), created to improve the ingredient stability. It works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

sodium hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body. Hyaluronic acid works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

This is a gentle exfoliator containing 5% Mandelic Acid less irritating compared to other AHA ingredients. Panthenol, Centella Asiatica Extract and Beta Glucan supply moisture to soothe skin after peeling. Recommended as a gentle, low-irritant exfoliator.

These gentle daily resurfacing products will work to lightly exfoliate the skin, resulting in clearer, smoother, more radiant looking skin.

Daily mild AHA exfoliator picks

This multi-functional formula contains a 6% blend of mandelic and lactic acids to gently exfoliate the skin, alongside liquorice root to soothe and even the complexion, kombucha to provide antioxidant protection, centella asiatica to reduce inflammation and niacinamide to brighten and balance.

A great toner for daily exfoliation for occasionally sensitive skin (super sensitive might be best with a PHA formula instead). 5% mandelic acid provides gentle daily exfoliation in a liquid form.

Cruelty free

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Vegan

I have chosen this high strength vitamin c serum to improve overall radiance, boost collagen production and offer daily antioxidant protection to the skin.

Allantoin occurs naturally in the body, but can also be derived from the root of the Comfrey plant or Chamomile, or produced synthetically. It is used in skincare for its ability to promote wound healing and healthy tissue growth, by stimulating the fibroblasts in the dermis to produce collagen and elastin fibres, essential tissues for skin regeneration and healing. Allantoin has also been shown to have soothing and anti-irritant properties, which is thought to be down to its ability to form complexes with irritating agents, thus preventing them from activating inflammatory mechanisms within the skin.

allantoin

L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form, and the active form required by the body to result in the many skin skin benefits of Vitamin C. The issue with L-ascorbic acid is in the delivery, as it is very unstable in water, and needs a pH 4 or below for it to penetrate the skin. That being said, when it can be stabilised in a formula and is able to penetrate the skin, it provides the highest potency of any form of Vitamin C currently available.

ascorbic acid

Vitamin C has many skin benefits, including its action as an antioxidant, to neutralise free radicals (reactive molecules with an unpaired electron), preventing them from causing damage to cells within the body. Vitamin C is also involved in the collagen-production process, so provides anti-wrinkle activity through this mechanism. Lastly, Vitamin C inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin-synthesis, and can therefore visibly reduce areas of hyperpigmentation in the skin.

Sea buckthorn is a natural plant extract which contains a high concentration of vitamin c, and polyphenols, which provide antioxidant protection against free radicals.

Hippophae Rhamnoides Water

hyaluronic acid

Sodium lactate is a salt produced by the fermentation of lactic acid. It acts as a humectant in the skin, drawing water molecules from the atmosphere towards it to plump and hydrate. It is present in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), as both sodium and lactate. Studies have shown that lactate levels in the stratum corneum directly correlate with the hydration levels within the skin, with low levels resulting in dry, rough, flaky skin. Applying this ingredient topically helps the natural water-binding capacity of the epidermis, resulting in smoother, softer, more hydrated skin.

sodium lactate

Natural moisturising factor (NMF) is a substance produced by the body, made up of minerals, lactate, urea, amino acids & humectants, which coats the surface skin cells to keep them moisturised. NMF increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin.

This serum has 21.5% of pure vitamin C for maximum nourishment. A few drops goes a long way. This serum replenishes moisture while restoring suppleness to the skin. The rich formula brightens skin and reduces the appearance of scars.

Vitamin C works as an antioxidant to protect the skin, as well as helping to reduce visible hyperpigmentation, and improve overall radiance.

Vitamin C serum picks - Ascorbic acid

This aesthetician favourite combines 15% L-ascorbic acid (the most potent form of Vitamin C) alongside copper growth peptides and is clinically proven to improve skin texture and tone over time. The formula also includes arbutin to help fade pigmentation marks, plus hyaluronic acid, urea and extracts of centella asiatica to hydrate and soothe the skin, mitigating any potential side effects of the high strength Vitamin C.

This formula combines 15% L-ascorbic acid alongside additional antioxidants vitamin e, b5 and glutathione. Perfect for those looking to maximise their daily antioxidant protection.

A very high-strength formula, this is well suited to those who do not have sensitive skin or those who are used to using vitamin c in their regime already. It is paired with hyaluronic acid, panthenol and allantoin to hydrate and soothe, so may be possible to introduce slowly into your routine even if you haven't used a vitamin c product before (if this is what your expert recommends).

This is a super high-strength water-based serum which includes 23% pure L-ascorbic acid plus Ferulic acid to offer antioxidant protection and to stabilise the Vitamin C. This one tingles on application as it gets to work, and really delivers on results.

Unfragranced

I have chosen this sulfur based spot treatment to use as an ad hoc product when you feel a spot coming through.

Sulfur used in skincare works to reduce blemishes. It does this by acting as an antibacterial to kill off the bacteria which causes acne, and also works to dry out the area, absorbing any excess sebum. It works best for blackheads and whiteheads, and is typically better for sensitive skin types than some other blemish-fighting ingredients.

Sulfur

Tocopherol, aka Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

tocopherol

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

By Wishtrend Sulfur 3% Clean Gel is a hydrating and soothing gel that that unclogs pores, prevents acne, and controls breakouts. The colloidal sulfur contained in the product helps to dry out dead skin cells to unclog pores and absorbs excessive sebum, while the two hydrating ingredients- Sodium Hyaluronate and Tocopherol- prevent dryness on the skin.

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