Ingredients in Skincare

Polyhydroxy Acids

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis and with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a class of ingredients also known by gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, lactobionic acid (pha) and maltobionic acid.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from sugar cane. AHAs work by dissolving the keratin binding the outermost layer of skin cells, speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. This leads to smoother, brighter, clearer skin, whilst reducing skin discolouration & fine lines/wrinkles with continued use. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight of all the AHAs, meaning it can penetrate the skin quickest, producing the fastest results, but also most likely to cause skin sensitivity, so it is best for those with fairly tolerant skin types.

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate is an anti-ageing peptide, seen as an ingredient that makes skincare 'botox in a bottle'. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Carnosine

Carnosine is a peptide used in skincare as an antioxidant and a soothing agent. Research also shows this also has an effect against glycation (a process which accelerates ageing).

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl Tetrapeptide

Acetyl tetrapeptide is a string of peptides used in skincare products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles brought on by repeated facial expressions. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, acetyl tetrapeptide, arginine/lysine polypeptide, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Arbutin

Arbutin

Arbutin, also known as alpha arbutin, can be derived from the bearberry plant, or made synthetically, and is used in skincare to lighten dark spots. It works by breaking down in the body into hydroquinone, which can inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for producing melanin. It is one of the most well-researched actives for lightening pigmentation, with better skin tolerability vs. prescription hydroquinone.

Acetyl Tyrosinamide

N-Acetyl L-Tyrosinamide

Acetyl tyrosinamide is an effective moisturising ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine, alanine, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Zinc gluconate is known to have antibacterial effects, and is used in skincare as a preservative to protect the user from harmful bacteria exposure, as well as potential imparting some anti-blemish effects via its antibacterial activity. Zinc is a family of ingredients that can also be found on ingredients lists as zinc pca, zinc sulfate and zinc sulphate.

Acetyl Glucosamine

Acetyl Glucosamine

Acetyl Glucosamine is an amino acid sugar. It increases hyaluronic acid production in the skin, repairs sun damage, improves skin tone & hydration, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine, arginine hcl, arginine pca, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.

Beta Glucan

Beta-Glucan

Beta Glucans are polysaccharides found naturally in oats, fungi, seaweed and yeast. It is best known for its skin-soothing properties, showing excellent effects at reducing redness and other symptoms of sensitive skin. They do this via barrier-supporting properties, as they form a film on the skin’s surface to offer protection against daily environmental stressors, which can aggravate sensitive skin. They also stimulate macrophage function in the body (immune cells which fight invading bacteria), so offer added benefit to those with already compromised skin barriers more susceptible to bacterial infection, for example eczema-prone or drier skin types. Their polysaccharide nature makes them an effective humectant, meaning they can draw water molecules towards them to plump and hydrate the area.

Ceramides

Ceramides

Ceramides are a class of ingredients, which includes ceramide ap, ceramide 3, ceramide eop, ceramide eos, ceramide ng, ceramide np, ceramide ns and ceramide 6-ll. Their function is to hold the skin cells together by creating a barrier against water-loss from the inside-out, and external aggressors from the outside-in. They make up almost 50% of our skins composition, but they can be depleted by UV, free radicals & pollution, and their production also naturally slows with age. Applying ceramides topically can increase the levels of ceramides in the epidermis, and therefore supports the natural healthy functioning of the skin.

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Arginine/lysine polypeptide is a skin care ingredient that slows down aging processes in the skin and boosts regeneration. It is in a class of ingredients also found on ingredients lists as acetyl hexapeptide, acetyl tetrapeptide, acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine, azelaoyl bis-dipeptide, copper heptapeptide-14 pantothenate, dipeptide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, ferric hexapeptide, heptapeptide-15, palmitate, myristol hexapeptide, myristol pentapeptide, myristoyl nonapeptide, myristoyl pentapeptide, oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl decapeptide, palmitoyl heptapeptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl nonapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, sh-oligopeptide, tetrapeptide and copper palmitoyl heptapeptide.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3 and Nicotinamide, has many skincare benefits. Firstly, it regulates sebum production in the skin, which in turn reduces blemishes and visible pore size. It also reduces facial redness by improving microcirculation, which means moving the blood inside the capillaries away from the face to reduce visible redness. It also has the ability to strengthen the natural lipid barrier of the skin by encouraging ceramide production (the building blocks which seal our skin cells together), which in turn increases the hydration within the epidermis. Lastly, niacinamide works to help reduce hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin from being deposited on the skin cells.

L-Carnitine

Carnitine is a naturally occurring amino acid derivative found in the body. In skincare, L-Carnitine is used for its potential skin-soothing, antioxidant, and revitalizing properties.

Isoleucine

Isoleucine

A branch-chained, essential amino acid that can be found in things like almond, cashew or soy protein. In skincare, it is used in moisturising products and is found to be good for skin barrier defence. Amino acids are a class of ingredients. They can also be found on ingredients lists as acetyl glucosamine,acetyl tyrosinamide, alanine, arginine hcl, histidine, arginine pca, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine and valine and yeast amino acids.