Phytic acid is technically an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), although its exfoliating effects are very mild compared to other acids in the AHA family. It does work to remove dead skin cell build up from the pores, and in turn reducing occurrences of breakouts, but this is not its main skin benefit. It is predominantly used for its high antioxidant potential, meaning it can neutralise damaging free radicals before they can cause any damage to the skin.

Renude

I have chosen this clinically-proven, active-packed serum to target pigmentation in the skin.

marine extract

Algae is an incredibly interesting natural ingredient source. It is essentially an underwater plant, designed to get its food from sunlight, much like any other plants, although from much more challenging conditions. There are many types of algae (kelp, laminaria, microalgae), but in general in all its forms it acts as a powerful antioxidant, protecting from free radical damage, as well as being able to hydrate the skin and deliver naturally-occurring vitamins into the skin.

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3 and Nicotinamide, has many skincare benefits. Firstly, it regulates sebum production in the skin, which in turn reduces blemishes and visible pore size. It also reduces facial redness by improving microcirculation, which means moving the blood inside the capillaries away from the face to reduce visible redness. It also has the ability to strengthen the natural lipid barrier of the skin by encouraging ceramide production (the building blocks which seal our skin cells together), which in turn increases the hydration within the epidermis. Lastly, niacinamide works to help reduce hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin from being deposited on the skin cells.

niacinamide

Phytic acid is technically an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), although it’s exfoliating effects are very mild compared to other acids in the AHA family. It does work to remove dead skin cell build up from the pores, and in turn reducing occurrences of breakouts, but this is not it’s main skin benefit. It is predominantly used for its high antioxidant potential, meaning it can neutralise damaging free radicals before they can cause any damage to the skin.

phytic acid

tetrapeptide

Many peptides function as anti-ageing ingredients in skincare, due to their ability to fit specific receptors in the body to trigger anti-ageing responses. This includes mechanisms like collagen production, cell regeneration or even blocking muscle contractions to smooth expression lines. Peptides are made up of amino acids, and are unique in shape, with a huge variety available to target specific responses in the body.

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, which is used in skincare to treat hyperpigmentation & post-inflammatory acne scarring. Studies have shown this to be as effective as the gold standard prescription ingredient hydroquinone, without any of the associated irritation, based on a panel with medium-toned skin (50 women of Iranian descent). It is believed to work by suppressing some of the mechanisms in the skin, which lead to the production of excess melanin.

tranexamic acid

Lytera® 2.0 is an advanced Pigment Correcting Serum, formulated to address the appearance of stubborn skin discoloration.

Formulated to address even the most stubborn skin discoloration, regardless of skin type or genetic makeup

Improvements seen in as early as 2 weeks with progressively dramatic results at 12 weeks and beyond

Helps optimize results of multiple treatment approaches, including chemical peels, laser therapy, microdermabrasion, and prescription skin care products, such as hydroquinone

Non-hydroquinone, retinol-free, paraben-free, fragrance-free, non-comedogenic formulation.

I have chosen this really gentle lightly exfoliating serum to address the uneven, dull skin you mention as a concern. This uses really gentle acids which are also hydrating in nature, to achieve the benefits of a resurfacing formula without any of the associated irritation.

Gluconolactone is a poly hydroxy acid (PHA). PHAs work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. 

gluconolactone

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within. 

Lactobionic acid is a non-irritating poly hydroxy acid (PHA) derived from natural sugars. PHAs provide a gentle exfoliation of the skin, encouraging dead cells to be shed from the surface, and new cells to be produced in the basal layer of the epidermis. This process leads to smoother, less congested & more radiant skin, whilst reducing discolouration & fine lines to provide visible anti-ageing results.

Lactobionic acid is also an antioxidant, protecting skin from harmful effects of free radicals within the body, as well as inhibiting specific enzymes which lead to degradation of our skin proteins, so this mechanism keeps skin more youthful. Lactobionic acid also has humectant qualities, meaning it is able to draw water molecules to it, plumping & hydrating the area which it is applied. It was patented in 2000 by Neostrata, as one of their ‘Bionic acids’.

lactobionic acid

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) work by gently dissolving the keratin that binds our outermost layer of skin cells, encouraging the natural exfoliation process of the skin, leading to smoother, clearer skin. This process also encourages new skin cell generation in the basal layer of the epidermis, a process which naturally slows with age, so with repeated use this can have an overall anti-ageing effect on the skin. Gluconolactone has also been shown to inhibit the enzyme elastase, which breaks down elastin in the skin (an essential protein produced by the fibroblasts), leading to sagging of the skin.

PHAs are much larger in molecular weight vs AHAs so they cannot penetrate the skin as fast or as far, which therefore makes more gentle & suitable for more sensitive skin types, including those with rosacea-prone skin. Gluconolactone is also especially good for drier skin types as it also has natural humectant qualities, meaning it draws water towards it, hydrating the skin from within.

Panthenol is a form of Vitamin B5, which is converted into Pantothenic acid within the epidermis when applied topically. Its main benefit in cosmetics is as a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to.

Panthenol also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

panthenol

Vitamin B5 is as a humectant, meaning it can draw water molecules to it, hydrating and plumping the area it has been applied to. It also supports the natural lipid barrier of the skin, by encouraging the production of a precursor to fatty acids & sphingolipids, both of which are essential parts of the skin barrier. This mechanism helps to moisturise the skin by reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), therefore retaining more moisture within the skin. This also helps to reduce inflammation in dry or broken skin, as an intact skin barrier will prevent potential irritants from getting into the epidermis.

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid (a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body), created to improve the ingredient stability. It works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

sodium hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide which occurs naturally in the body. Hyaluronic acid works as an extremely powerful humectant, able to attract 1000x its own weight in water, to immediately plump and hydrate the area it is applied to. The body’s own production of hyaluronic acid slows with age, so supplementing this ingredient in topical formulations helps to support the skin’s natural moisture-binding, anti-ageing mechanisms.

Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), which is found naturally in the body, and in the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF). PCA acts as a humectant, meaning it draws water to it, plumping and hydrating the area. The skin’s NMF ensures adequate hydration of the stratum corneum, which also works to support the overall barrier function of the skin, regulating trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Including Sodium PCA in skincare supports this natural mechanism of the skin.

sodium pca

Natural moisturising factor (NMF) is a substance produced by the body, made up of minerals, lactate, urea, amino acids & humectants, which coats the surface skin cells to keep them moisturised. NMF increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin.

This gentle serum contains 5% gluconolactone and 2% lactobionic acid, both of which are polyhydroxy acids (PHAs). PHAs are large exfoliating acids which work by dissolving the keratin that binds our outer skin cells. Their large size makes them very gentle, so they are suitable for most skin types, including mildly sensitive. 

Regular use of PHAs can improve the skin texture, making it smoother and more radiant. The exfoliating activity of these ingredients encourages growth of new skin cells in the base layer of the epidermis (the living layer of our skin). This cell renewal process naturally slows with age, so ingredients that can stimulate the speed at which this happens help to encourage youthful-looking skin. 

Also included in the product is 2% phytic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). This ingredient has been shown to help brighten overall skin tone, as well as decongest the skin, minimising breakouts and blackheads. It is a large sized AHA, which means it is more gentle on the skin so is a good option for more sensitive skin types than other smaller AHAs (such as glycolic and lactic acids). 
The formula also contains a blend of natural humectants - sodium pca, panthenol and hyaluronic acid. Humectants work by drawing water molecules towards them to hydrate and plump the area which they are applied to. This makes this serum a fantastic option for those with drier skin.

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are very gentle, due to their large molecular size, so are a great option for exfoliating more sensitive skin types.

Gentle PHA exfoliator picks

This daily toner contains a gentle 5.5% concentration of gluconolactone, a polyhydroxy acid which works to exfoliate the outer layer of skin. The formula also includes aloe vera to soothe, acai extract to provide antioxidant protection and prickly pear extract which helps to boost cell renewal and provide an overall brightening effect.

This gentle water-based serum contain a 10% blend of PHAs (8% gluconolactone and 2% maltobionic acid). These are multi-tasking ingredients which work to gently resurface and brighten the skin, as well as hydrate, even out skin tone and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Cruelty free

UK made

Doctor founder

Female founder

Unfragranced

I have chosen this lightweight serum to minimise the appearance of pores and scarring on the skin.

Adenosine is a well-researched anti-ageing and soothing ingredient. It is produced naturally in the body, but can also be derived from yeast. It works by stimulating the skin's own collagen production process, to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It also has anti-inflammatory and barrier repair benefits, so is a fantastic multi-functional skincare ingredient.

adenosine

Beta Glucans are polysaccharides found naturally in oats, fungi, seaweed and yeast. They are best known for its skin-soothing properties, showing excellent effects at reducing redness and other symptoms of sensitive skin. They do this via barrier-supporting properties, as they form a film on the skin’s surface to offer protection against daily environmental stressors, which can aggravate sensitive skin. They also stimulate macrophage function in the body (immune cells which fight invading bacteria), so offer added benefit to those with already compromised skin barriers more susceptible to bacterial infection, for example ezcema-prone or or drier skin types. Their polysaccharide nature makes them an effective humectant, meaning they can draw water molecules towards them to plump and hydrate the area.

beta glucan

Bisabolol is a naturally-occurring active found in the chamomile plant, although this can also be created synthetically. It’s key properties are as an anti-inflammatory and soothing agent, with some studies also showing it to have a brightening effect on the skin. Bisabolol is also a rich source of Panthenol (Vitamin B5), which acts as a humectant, meaning it draws water molecules towards it to plump and hydrate the area. Studies have also shown that bisabolol can enhance the penetration of other actives into the skin, so is great when used in combination with other actives designed to work at the basal layer of the epidermis, or in fact the dermis.

bisabolol

Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG) is a catechin found naturally in abundance within green tea. It has a number of skin benefits, firstly as a powerful antioxidant, meaning it can neutralise free radicals before they can cause damage to skin cells. Studies have also shown it to encourage the production of the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), in turn increasing the skin’s ability to retain moisture, which results in more hydrated, plump, smoother skin. There is some research to show that EGCG can also reduce visible hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin.

epigallocatechin gallate

hyaluronic acid

The name for a group of lipids comprising of a fatty acid, glycerol & phosphate. Lecithin in an example of a phospholipid.

phospholipids

Our outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, has a multilamellar structure (essentially a fine membrane), made up of lipids (fats), to form a non-permeable barrier. This keeps water inside the skin, and acts as the first defense against external aggressors. The lipids which make up the majority of this are known as ceramides, which are produced naturally in the body from a range of other naturally-occurring lipids, which we class here as essential lipids (not the same as essential fatty acids, which are deemed ‘essential’ as the body cannot produce these naturally.) Using these lipids in skincare helps to support the natural skin barrier, preventing water-loss to keep skin hydrated and balanced.

Quercitin is a naturally occurring bioflavonoid found in fruits and vegetables such as kale, onion, tomatoes and berries. It is used in skincare for its antioxidant abilities, meaning it can neutralise free radicals before they cause any damage to the skin. Studies also show Quercetin to have anti-inflammatory effects, and an ability to protect the skin against aggressors such as UV, histamine and toxic chemicals. It is also believed to support the skin barrier functioning, reducing water-loss via the skin to improve hydration levels in the epidermis.

quercetin

Resveratrol in a polyphenol most famously found in the skin of red grapes, but also occurs naturally in peanuts and certain fruits such as blueberries and cranberries. It is included in skincare for its powerful antioxidant abilities - with research showing it can protect against free radicals, as well as oxidative damage caused by UV. 

resveratrol

tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Vitamin C has many skin benefits, including its action as an antioxidant, to neutralise free radicals (reactive molecules with an unpaired electron), preventing them from causing damage to cells within the body. Vitamin C is also involved in the collagen-production process, so provides anti-wrinkle activity through this mechanism. Lastly, Vitamin C inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin-synthesis, and can therefore visibly reduce areas of hyperpigmentation in the skin.

Tocopherol, aka Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

tocopherol

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble Vitamin contained in many plant oils, or can also be produced synthetically. Vitamin E is found naturally in our own skin, and it’s main benefit is to offer powerful antioxidant protection against pollution and free radical damage. It also helps to support our skin’s natural lipid barrier, which in turn improves the hydration levels within the epidermis, as water loss through the skin is minimised.

Ubiquinone, also known as CoEnzyme Q10, is a fat-soluble substance produced naturally in the body. It provides antioxidant protection against free radicals, to support the skin’s own anti-ageing defenses. With age, the body’s production of this vitamin-like substance decreases, so it can be applied topically to provide extra antioxidant activity. It has also been shown to support the synthesis of collagen and elastin, proteins which give skin structure & bounce, which also naturally decrease with age, so the inclusion of Ubiquinone in your routine can help to support youthful-looking skin.

ubiquinone

RESIST Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum has a water-light texture that delivers potent powerhouse antioxidants and skin-restoring ingredients to resist the signs of aging, visibly firm the appearance of skin, and substantially increase skin-rejuvenating hydration. It goes to work immediately to provide weightless hydration and an exclusive mix of antioxidants and grape-derived resveratrol. Together with skin-restoring and nourishing ingredients—hyaluronic acid and pore-improving niacinamide—this serum provides visible results, yet is so light, you won’t even know it’s there!

Phytic Acid

What is Phytic Acid?

What does Phytic Acid do?

Who is Phytic Acid good for?

Who should avoid Phytic Acid?

Phytic Acid

What is Phytic Acid?

What does Phytic Acid do?

Who is Phytic Acid good for?

Who should avoid Phytic Acid?

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